Nautical style
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Nautical style, also known as maritime fashion, is an iconic and enduring style of dress that has its roots in the traditional naval uniforms of Britain and France. Over the years it has transitioned into civilian maritime attire, leisurewear, and a globally recognisable fashion genre. Its ongoing appeal lies in its simplicity, durability, and clearly defined visual identity.
It has featured in the work of top fashion designers, most notably Coco Chanel, who included a female version of the marinière in her 1917 collection, and Jean Paul Gaultier, who relaunched it for men, as part of his Boy Toy collection, in 1983.
History
[edit]The first uniform regulations for officers in the British Royal Navy were issued in 1748, with the predominant colours being dark blue, and white.[1] The distinctive dark shade of blue was subsequently adopted by other navies around the world and, by at least 1780, it was being referred to in the press as navy blue.[2]
The popularity of nautical style as a fashion can be traced to Queen Victoria who inspired a trend for children's wear that soon became widespread.[3] In 1846 she had a child’s sailor uniform made her son Prince Albert, and the Queen recorded the first time he wore it in her diary;
"Bertie put on his sailor's dress, which was beautifully made by the man on board who makes for our sailors. When he appeared, the officers and sailors who were all assembled on deck to see him, cheered, and seemed delighted"
The iconic French marinière, now more commonly referred to as a Breton shirt, is a cotton top featuring horizontal navy blue and white stripes, and a staple of nautical style. It was first introduced as the official uniform of the French Navy in 1858, and traditionally had 21 stripes (reportedly one for each of Napoleon’s victories).[4] During the First World War, Coco Chanel regularly took seaside holidays and was inspired by the local sailors' uniforms. At her second shop in Deauville she launched the "Navy Style", a short marinière. It revolutionised women’s leisurewear with a distinctly nautical flair, and her marinières soon became sought-after luxury items.[5]
Breton shirts, as civilian menswear, were popularised by Pablo Picasso who painted a self-portrait of himself wearing one in 1943,[6] but it wasn't until 1983, when Jean Paul Gaultier relaunched them as part of his "Boy Toy" collection, that they gained mainstream popularity.[7]
Yves Saint-Laurent was the first to bring the naval collar and reefer jacket to the catwalk in 1962. This novel collection was inspired by his friends on Paris' Left Bank, including Jean Cocteau, who were already dressing in utility wear.
Key elements of nautical style
[edit]Colours: The classic palette includes navy blue, white, red, and cream, often accented with gold buttons or rope motifs. These colours evoke naval tradition and oceanic life.
Stripes: Horizontal stripes—especially navy blue and white—are a signature element. The Breton stripe in particular has become synonymous with seaside chic.
Tailoring: Structured pieces like navy blazers, double-breasted coats, and gold-buttoned jackets give the style its formal, aristocratic edge, rooted in naval and yacht club uniforms.
Footwear: The deck shoe, originally invented in the 1930s for sailors due to its non-slip sole, is a foundational item. Espadrilles, white canvas sneakers, and deck loafers also make frequent appearances.
Fabrics: Traditional nautical clothing favours natural, durable fabrics such as cotton, wool, canvas, and linen—suited to both sea air and summer outings.
Accessories: Nautical fashion often includes accessories with maritime motifs—anchors, ropes, knots, and ship wheels—alongside sailor caps, duffle bags, and aviator sunglasses.
See also
[edit]References
[edit]- ^ "Uninforms and Badges of Rank (Archived)". National Archives. Retrieved 10 July 2025.
- ^ https://www.oed.com/dictionary/navy-blue_n?tab=factsheet#13346423
- ^ "The origins of nautical fashion in Britain". Royal Museums Greenwich. Retrieved 10 July 2025.
- ^ "The ultimate symbol of French cool". bbc.com. Retrieved 10 July 2025.
- ^ Charlot, Aurore (9 June 2009). "Les basiques de la maison Chanel" [House of Chanel basics]. Elle magazine (in French). Retrieved 15 December 2012.
- ^ "PABLO PICASSO AND THE MARINIÈRE". ateliermariniere.com. Retrieved 10 July 2025.
- ^ "Chanel, Gaultier, Montebourg: La marinière dans tous ses états". 20minutes.fr (in French). Retrieved 15 September 2020.
