Maciej Berbeka
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|
 Berbeka (left) on Mera Peak in 2009 | |
| Personal information | |
|---|---|
| Born | 17 October 1954 Zakopane, Poland |
| Died | 6 March 2013 (aged 58) Broad Peak, Pakistan |
Maciej Berbeka (17 October 1954 – 6 March 2013) was a Polish mountaineer and mountain guide.[1]
Berbeka made the first-ever winter ascent of three eight-thousanders: Manaslu, on 12 January 1984 with Ryszard Gajewski,[2] and Cho Oyu, on 12 February 1985 with Maciej Pawlikowski (the only winter ascent on an eight-thousander made along a new route),[3] and Broad Peak on 5 March 2013 with Adam Bielecki, Artur Małek, and Tomasz Kowalski.[4] Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski went missing on 6 March 2013 as they were descending from Broad Peak. They were declared dead two days later.[5]
Berbeka had also summited Annapurna in 1982,[6] Mount Everest and Lhotse. He was also the first person in history to have reached over 8000 m during the winter in Karakoram – Rocky Summit (8028 m), on 6 March 1988.
His life is the subject of a 2022 Polish Netflix film, Broad Peak.[7]
See also
[edit]References
[edit]- ^ Hawley, E. (1994). "Everest Ascent and Tragedy". American Alpine Journal. 36 (68). American Alpine Club: 274–275. ISSN 0065-6925.
- ^ Korniszewski, Lech (1984). "Asia, Nepal, Manaslu, Winter Ascent and Tragedy, 1984". Climbs And Expeditions. American Alpine Journal. 26 (58). American Alpine Club: 249. Retrieved 20 May 2025.
- ^ Nyka, Józef (1985). "Asia, Nepal, Cho Oyu, Winter Ascent". Climbs And Expeditions. American Alpine Journal. 27 (59). American Alpine Club: 275. Retrieved 20 May 2025.
- ^ Griffin, Lindsay (2013). "Broad Peak (8,047m), first winter ascent and tragedy". American Alpine Journal. 55 (87). American Alpine Club: 297–299. ISBN 978-1933056791. ISSN 0065-6925. Retrieved 25 May 2024.
- ^ "Broad Peak: all hope lost for Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski". Planetmountain. 8 March 2013. Retrieved 9 March 2013.
- ^ Nyka, Józef (1982). "Asia, Nepal, Annapurna South Face, New Route". Climbs And Expeditions. American Alpine Journal. 24 (56). American Alpine Club: 227–229. Retrieved 20 May 2025.
- ^ "Broad Peak". Netflix.
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