Draft:Traditional clothing of Libya

• Comment: Still reads like it was written by AI and much of this is unsourced or the sources are unreliable such as blogs. S0091 (talk) 16:32, 11 July 2025 (UTC)

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The traditional clothing of Libya, also known as Libyan dress (Arabic: الزي التقليدي الليبي), refers to the folk costumes worn by Libyans. The traditional clothing styles vary across the country′s coastal cities, as well as desert and mountain regions, though generally, features are shared across the country. Throughout history, Libyan traditional clothing was highly elaborate, especially in urban centers like Tripoli, Benghazi, and Ghadames, but it gradually evolved into simpler forms. Traditional clothing is still prominently worn during weddings, religious holidays, and cultural festivals such as Eid al-Fitr, Eid al-Adha, and Yennayer.

History

One of the earliest accounts of Libyan clothing comes from classical antiquity. Most notably, Diodorus Siculus’ Bibliotheca Historica, where he describes the types of materials traditionally worn by Libyans.

For they have nothing to do with civilized food or clothing, but cover their bodies with the skins of goats.

Similarly, one of the earliest descriptions of Libyans' clothing comes from ancient Greek historians such as Strabo, who noted that Libyan men wore 'ungirded tunics with wide borders'. Herodotus likewise described Libyans as favoring simple robes made from animal skins or woven fabrics, practical choices well suited to the harsh desert environment. He specifically mentions the use of animal skins as outer garments among Libyans, distinguishing their style from neighboring peoples. He also mentioned Libyan women's distinctive goatskin cloaks that were decorated with tassels. claiming that the Greeks later adapted them into the iconic aegis associated with Athena. Herodotus remarked:

It would seem that the robe and aegis of Athene were copied by the Greeks from the Libyan women; for save that the dress of Libyan women is leathern, and that the tassels of their goatskin bucklers are not snakes but made of thongs of hide, in all else their equipment is the same. Nay, the very name bewrays that the raiment of the statues of Pallas has come from Libya; for Libyan women wear hairless tasselled goatskins over their dress, coloured with madder, and the Greeks have changed the name of these into their 'aegis'.

Herodotus also provided insight into Libyan clothing, pointing out that the Adyrmachidians, which were Libyans who lived closest to Egypt and generally followed Egyptian customs but dressed like other Libyans. He added:

Now, concerning the lands inhabited by Libyans, the Adyrmachidians are the people that live nearest to Egypt. They follow Egyptian customs for the most part, but dress like other Libyans. Their women wear twisted bronze ornaments on both legs.

Archeological evidence also supports these accounts by illustrating how the ancient Libyans prioritized practicality and craftsmanship in their clothing. The Libyans produced footwear from natural leather, typically from goat or cow hide, and adorned themselves with accessories made from materials like feathers, bone, and other local resources. They also wore jewelry such as anklets, bracelets, necklaces, which appear prominently in both the Acacus rock art and Egyptian reliefs.

Men's Clothing

Traditional men’s clothing in Libya generally remain consistent across the country, though regional variations exist. Many older men continue to wear these clothing regularly for communal gatherings such as Friday prayers and during ceremonies like weddings.

Katt Malaf

The katt malaf is a traditional Libyan outfit with Ottoman roots, historically associated with the elite and state officials during the Ottoman period in Libya. The ensemble consists of a zaboun (jacket), a farmala (vest), and sirwal (trousers), all made from matching fabric in both color and material. The pieces are tied together with coordinated decorative embroidery, often done with cotton or silk thread.

Zaboun and Soureya

Zaboun is a long-sleeved jacket worn over an undershirt. The sleeves are embroidered up to the cuffs, exemplifying skilled craftsmanship. The undershirt beneath it is the soureya, a shirt usually dyed a single color. This garment serves as a lightweight base layer adapted to the local climate.

Headwear

Men also wear a decorative headdress called a shashiyah. In eastern Libya, this decorative headpiece is called the shenna, while in the west it is known as the kabous. These are worn with the zaboun and are commonly found in black or red. Men in Tripolitania generally favor the black shashiyah, whereas in Cyrenaica both black and red versions are popular. Often, especially indoors, a white cap called a taqiyah is worn underneath the shashiyah to complete the outfit.

Farmla

Worn under the zaboun, the farmala is a richly decorated garment featuring embroidered threads known as “Kharj.” Its front and neckline are adorned with buttons and intricate embroidery. Additionally, the farmala is fitted with buttons commonly known as Batum. There are differing views on the origins of the farmala where some scholars attribute its introduction to the Ottoman period during their rule over Libya, while others argue that the garment predates Ottoman influence and developed organically within Amazigh communities.

Sirwal

Distinctive wide trousers are commonly worn to allow ease of movement, particularly for horseback riding, a historically important activity in Libyan society. This design reflects the practical needs of daily life and traditional occupations.

Jarid

The jarid, also known as houly, is a large cloak traditionally woven by hand from sheep’s wool or camel hair, a process that can take several months to complete. Typically white or brown, the jarid carries significant historical and symbolic weight, notably as the garment associated with Libyan resistance leader Omar Mukhtar. The name ″jarid″ comes from the Arabic verb meaning ″to strip,″ a reference to the worn and stripped appearance of the cloak’s fleece after extended use. Its origins date back to ancient times, with design elements that bear resemblance to robes once worn by Roman nobility.

Different types of the jarid include the white cloak, adorned with tassels and worn in winter for everyday use, celebrations, and funerals. The brown version lacks decorative hems and is worn during winter but avoided for ceremonies. A red variant exists but is considered inauspicious and rarely worn.

Certain regions, such as the Nafusa Mountains and Nalut, are renowned for producing some of the whitest and finest Jird, woven on traditional vertical looms. Women, particularly in Misrata, traditionally took part in weaving these heavy garments.

The cloak can be worn in various styles, often wrapped around the body with one end passing beneath the armpit and tied at the chest in a knot called the Takmiya. The cloak’s use extends beyond clothing; in the Nafusa Mountains, it also serves as bedding, travel cover, and occasionally a rope for drawing water.

Burnous

The burnous (Arabic: برنوص) is a traditional cloak worn by men across North Africa. In Libya, it is typically worn over the jarid and is embroidered with Kharj thread, that features patterns similar to those on the on the zaboun. Although its use declined in recent decades, younger generations have begun wearing it again as part of a cultural revival. In recent history, it has also become known as the ″Burnous of the Senussi,″ in reference to King Idris I, who frequently wore it as part of his royal dress.

Jubbah

A loose, outer garment with an embroidered neckline and openings for the arms, typically made from wool or silk. The design covers most of the body, leaving the arms and lower legs exposed. The earliest known depiction of the Libyan Jubbah appears in prehistoric rock art found in the Acacus Mountains in southern Libya.

Qashabiya

A traditional garment worn by men in Ghadames, consisting of a loose robe accompanied by trousers and a taqiyah or shashiyah. It is notable for its intricate embroidery and colorful fabrics, often handmade by women in the community.

Historically, the textiles used to produce the qashabiya were imported from regions such as Sudan and Niger during height of trans-Saharan trade, when Ghadames served as a major hub for caravan routes.

Balgha

Traditional Libyan shoes native to Ghadames. This men’s footwear is typically worn during religious ceremonies and festive occasions, often paired with qashabiya.

The shoes come in different sizes, colors, and styles that range from simple everyday to elaborately embroidered versions that feature traditional Ghadames stitching. The craft of making balgha is considered an important facet of Libyan heritage. One of the most renowned artisans is Qasim Yadr, a respected native of Ghadames known for his artisanal skill.

Other

• Jalabiya, a loose-fitting, traditional garment.

• Thobe, a traditional garment worn by men throughout the Arab world, characterized by long sleeves and an ankle-length cut.
• Sadriya, a traditional vest, often richly embroidered with black silk and secured at the front with buttons.

Women's Clothing

The traditional clothing in Libya reflects the country′s rich cultural roots and its diverse geography. In many parts of the country, women wear bright, colorful silks that drape around the body in a style similar to a toga, held together at the shoulders with fibulas.

However, in rural areas, heavier materials like wool are more commonly used, especially during the colder months. These pieces are usually thick, woven garments that provide warmth while still featuring decorative stitching. Headscarves or wraps are also a regular part of traditional dress, often colorful and adorned with small tassels.

Farrashiyah and Rida

Traditionally, women wore the farrashiyah, a white, enveloping garment associated with modesty and regional tradition, known in other Darija dialects as the haik. It typically measures between four and six meters in length and spanning roughly 1.5 to 2 meters in width.

The rida is a traditional garment worn by Libyan women in daily life, though in recent years it is mostly reserved for special occasions. It is similar in dimensions to the farrashiyah, but different in material and appearance. It is made from starched silk to give it a stiff, structured shape, and is usually brightly colored and patterned with stripes that are often embellished with silver or gold thread. The rida is typically worn by wrapping it around the waist with a belt known as hizam and covering the head with it. In eastern Libya, the rida is wrapped shorter to reveal the embroidered and appliquéd pants, known as 'sirwal,' while in the western Libya, the wrapping usually extends fully down. It is worn in various styles depending on the event. While simpler versions are used daily, luxurious silk versions with elaborate motifs are reserved for special occasions.

Abroug

A traditional Libyan garment, consisting of a long shawl, approximately four meters in length and 65 centimeters in width, with the end portion typically wrapped around the neck. It is notable for its densely patterned decorative weaving and remains in production by skilled artisans.

The abroug also holds a symbolic place in Libyan oral traditions and popular poetry, particularly as a signifier of love, longing, and social identity. One traditional verse from Libyan folk poetry reflects this association:

Arabic (Original)	English (Translation)
يقولوا الناقر ساع ايتوق	They say the drummer longs at times
وحقك يالاوي العبروق	By your oath, wearer of the abroug
وحق الحب وحق الشوق	By the truth of love, and of longing
انها الدنيا بالحب اتروق	It is love that makes life feel sweet

However, nowadays, it is mainly worn during weddings, 'henna' celebrations, and cultural festivals all over Libya.

Qamja and Souriya

The qamja is a heavily beaded tunic worn with a silk rida, often adorned with detailed embroidery and beadings on the sleeves and front panel, featuring floral and filigree motifs. It is typically paired with gold or silver jewelry. The souriya is another layer worn underneath, usually dyed a single color.

Badla Sghira

Badla Sghira, meaning ″small ensemble,″ is traditionally worn by married Libyan women during special occasions such as weddings and postpartum celebrations. This ensemble typically comprises several pieces, including the regba (neckpiece), farmala (embroidered vest), miryul (apron), qamja (embroidered blouse), rida (long cloth wrap), tistmal (decorative sash), and often includes a hand fan to cope with the heat. Gold and silver jewelry are essential accessories to the ensemble.

The small ensemble resembles the larger one but it is less expensive and lacks the palm-leaf houly mat, instead opting to use a silk houly.

Badla Kbira

A traditional Libyan garment made from silk, gold and silver threads, or sometimes brombakh fabric. Sometimes, it is also made of silk and silver in a cast form, similar to the palm-leaf mat called hasira. It is typically worn by brides on special occasions such as the Najma day and the wedding week.

The term ″Badla Kbira″ literally means ″the large ensemble,″ referring to its wide, flowing design. It represents the formal, more dramatic version of Libya’s traditional clothing, worn by both men and women, though the styles differ significantly between genders. It is particularly associated with bridal attire. This traditional dress includes a qamja (a loose shirt), wide sirwal (trousers), a farmala (vest), and a regba (collar) that is decorated with beads of various sizes and colors. Footwear includes types such as telek, balgha, and kendara.

Boudri

A pink, striped rida known as houly boudry (the pink dress), which is folded into cushion-like pads or bows at the back and hips. She also wears a matching headscarf. Accompanying this garment, women typically adorn themselves with substantial amounts of traditional jewelry on their hands and ankles, as well as a Libyan belt, known as a hizam, and carry a traditional hand fan.

Jelwa

Typically, it features a deep maroon color complemented by an embroidered shawl, often decorated with silver threads or intricate silver embellishments. The jelwa is not complete without numerous gold and silver jewelry, including:

• The shanbir, worn around the head.
• Bracelets known as aswar or hedayed.
• Necklaces known as khenag.
• Dalbej, also worn around the wrists.
• Hinged, cylindrical anklets known as khalkhal.
• Hizam, a traditional belt.
• Taklila, earrings.
• The lebba on the chest and rings on the fingers.
• In addition to the jawhar or aqiq necklace, the qilada, and the beyzwan.

The jelwa is part of Libya’s rich traditional dress heritage, with roots that trace back to the ancient Punic civilization. The garments and accessories show remarkable continuity with styles from the Punic era, exhibiting striking similarities to archaeological finds in regions such as Spain.

At the same time, the jelwa also shares characteristics with the Ottoman-era bindali. The bindali is a garment worn by women in Ottoman North Africa and the eastern Mediterranean, typically made from velvet or silk in dark red or maroon colors, and decorated with silver or gold embroidery around the neckline, cuffs, and hems. This style became popular during Ottoman rule and influenced local dress traditions.

Jewelry

Libyan traditional jewelry is typically reserved for special occasions, and includes distinctive pieces known for their size and symbolism. Necklaces, known as sadriya, are often heavy and can extend down to the knees. Bangle-like bracelets may measure 4 to 6 inches in width, while hinged anklets resembling rigid, larger bangles are known as khalkhal. Large silver fibulas, known as khilal, were once commonly used by women to fasten their robes but are now frequently crafted from gold. These fibulas are usually adorned with the khamaiseh, a hand-shaped amulet, or other charms believed to offer protection against the evil eye.

Fabrics

Traditional Libyan clothing incorporates a variety of fabrics and decorative techniques. One of the fabrics commonlu used in crafting garments for older individuals is known as alaja (الالاجة), while gabardī (قابردي) remains the most commonly used fabric overall due to its durability and adaptability. For embroidery and decorative work, artisans employ threads known as kharj and gaytan (خيوط الخرج والقيطان), which add texture and detail to garments. In more modern adaptations, some pieces are enhanced with Italian Pronto fabric, which resembles that used in Western men’s suiting, blending traditional aesthetics with contemporary materials.

Libyans continue to wear traditional attire during major social, religious, and national events. The choice of fabric and styling often corresponds to the nature and formality of the occasion, conveying not only personal or familial taste but also the significance of the event itself.

External links

Media related to Libyan clothing at Wikimedia Commons

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