Draft:Coleman Douglas Pearls

Coleman Douglas Pearls is a British jewellery brand specialising in natural and cultured pearls. Founded in London in 1989 by designer and pearl specialist Chrissie Douglas, the brand is recognised internationally for its innovative approach to pearl design, combining traditional craftsmanship with bold, contemporary aesthetics. Coleman Douglas Pearls is known for its handcrafted collections, bespoke commissions and a distinct focus on colour-matching pearls to individual clients' hair, eye and skin colour – a process that enhances the client's natural beauty and reflects the brand's dedication to wearable, timeless jewellery.

The company produces its designs in-house, using responsibly sourced pearls, conflict-free diamonds, repurposed gold and Natural Pearls. Its designs range from classic and bridal collections to more avant-garde creations that incorporate leather, silk, wood and semi-precious stones.

Despite its international reputation, Coleman Douglas Pearls has remained a family-run business, thriving on personal service and word-of-mouth recommendations – having never paid for advertising.

History

Founding and early years

Coleman Douglas Pearls was founded in 1989 by Chrissie Douglas, who began designing pearl jewellery while pregnant, aged 28. Drawing on her artistic heritage – born in Mexico City to two renowned painters – Chrissie was immersed in creativity and colour from a young age. Her passion for design was further influenced by her ancestor Alfred Smith, a pearl specialist and owner of A&J Smith Jewellers in Aberdeen, who spent hours fishing for natural freshwater pearls in Scotland's Tay River. Studying his hand-drawn designs sparked Chrissie's lifelong fascination with pearls and their role in jewellery throughout history.

From the outset, Chrissie's designs challenged traditional ideas of pearl jewellery. She experimented with pearls alongside semi-precious stones, leather, silk, wood and other unconventional materials, creating pieces that were bold yet wearable, refined yet expressive. The brand quickly earned a reputation for its artistry and innovation, such as the design "the body", a platinum chain, held together by two Tahitian pearls, draped across the torso.

Her unique vision was recognised when Lucia Van Der Post, writing for the Financial Times' How To Spend It magazine, crowned Chrissie the "Pearl Queen" – a title that propelled the brand into the public eye. Coleman Douglas Pearls began showcasing collections in Harrods, Liberty of London and later Fortnum & Mason, while attracting attention from international buyers in Japan, the United States and beyond.

Design and craftsmanship

At the heart of Coleman Douglas Pearls is a commitment to exceptional craftsmanship, natural beauty and innovative design. Each piece of jewellery is handcrafted in the brand's London studio, where founder Chrissie Douglas and her team work closely with clients to create elegant, personal and enduring designs.

Philosophy and style

Coleman Douglas Pearls redefines traditional pearl jewellery through a philosophy rooted in comfort, versatility and storytelling. Chrissie has always prioritised how jewellery feels as much as how it looks. She believes that pieces should be easy to wear, never overpowering and should tell a story unique to the wearer. This has led to the brand being associated with a sense of daily, subtle elegance – sophisticated, personal and effortlessly wearable.

"I create what I like to wear. It must be comfortable, versatile, unfussy, yet also tell a story – wearable art." ~ Chrissie Douglas

To ensure authenticity and maintain high standards, most Coleman Douglas Pearls designs include a hallmarked precious metal tag engraved with the brand's logo. Where possible, pieces also feature a signature pearl clasp rather than a standard metal one, adding a refined, tactile quality to each creation.

Colour matching expertise

One of Coleman Douglas Pearls' most distinctive features is their expertise in pearl colour and shape matching. Chrissie and her team use their knowledge to identify the most flattering pearl tones for each individual's skin tone, eye colour and hair colour. This personalisation creates what Chrissie describes as a "lighting-up" effect, where the lustre of the pearl enhances the natural beauty of the wearer.

While many associate pearls solely with classic white, Coleman Douglas Pearls offers an extensive spectrum of colours, including creamy gold, icy grey, peacock black, pastel blues and soft pinks – each carefully selected to harmonise with the wearer's unique complexion.

"Most people think the classic white pearl is the only option. Although white is a good foundation, the right shade will make you look luminous, whilst the wrong shade can make you look washed out." ~ Chrissie Douglas

Collections

Coleman Douglas Pearls has developed five key design collections:

• Classic Collection - Timeless elegance and simplicity, ideal for everyday wear or informal occasions.
• Bridal Collection - Designed to complement a bride's natural radiance with customisable pieces.
• Warrior Collection - Bold, expressive pieces inspired by strength, rebellion and drama, often mixing leather and pearls.
• Fine Jewellery - High-end, intricately crafted pieces made with rare pearls, precious metals and gemstones.
• Natural Jewellery - High-end repurposing antique and vintage jewellery into wearable contemporary pearl designs.

In 2021, Chrissie partnered with her daughter Natalia to launch the "Back to Basics" range – a return to minimalism, showcasing primary pearl colours and classic settings in silver, yellow and rose gold, with an emphasis on personalised colour-matching.

Collaborations and commissions

Throughout its history, Coleman Douglas Pearls has been invited to collaborate with luxury brands, cultural institutions and major fashion names – further cementing its reputation as one of the UK's most respected and imaginative pearl jewellery designers.

Tiffany & Co. / Iridesse Collaboration

In August 2004, Chrissie Douglas was selected by Tiffany & Co.'s pearl retail venture, Iridesse, as one of five internationally recognised jewellery designers to create exclusive cultured pearl collections. She was the only non-USA designer invited, alongside Erica Courtney, Anthony Camargo and David Nakard Armstrong of Anthony Nak, Christian Tse and Gabrielle Sanchez.

Robert Cepek, president of Iridesse, stated: "We believe each designer contributes their own personal interpretation of cultured pearl jewellery." Chrissie continues to be part of Iridesse's core designer group.

Perles de Tahiti & GIE Collections

One of the brand's most significant partnerships was with Perles de Tahiti, who commissioned Chrissie Douglas to create three distinct pearl jewellery collections for fashion shows, exhibitions and editorial campaigns. These collections were designed to challenge the conventional perception of pearl jewellery and highlight its versatility across different style genres:

• The Victorian/Edwardian Collection – Elegant designs with a historical flair, reminiscent of period jewellery.
• Audrey Hepburn-Inspired Collection – Timeless pieces influenced by mid-century glamour and iconic femininity.
• Biker Chic Collection – Edgy, rebellious designs combining leather and pearls, celebrating a modern, free-spirited energy.

Harley-Davidson 100th Anniversary

In 2012, Coleman Douglas Pearls was invited to participate in Harley-Davidson's 100th Anniversary celebration in London.The brand showcased several of its award-winning Biker Chic designs at a celebrity-studded retro-themed party. Inspired by the 1950s spirit of rebellion and self-expression, the event perfectly aligned with the Warrior Collection's ethos of strength and statement-making style.

Natural History Museum & Touring Exhibition

The brand was selected by the American Museum of Natural History (New York) to contribute pearl jewellery to its globally touring exhibition Pearls, which later became a permanent feature in the Earth Treasury at the Natural History Museum in London. The inclusion of Coleman Douglas designs marked a major institutional endorsement of Chrissie's work and her status as a pearl authority.

Fortnum & Mason Collaboration

In celebration of its 30th anniversary, Coleman Douglas Pearls collaborated with Fortnum & Mason, the prestigious British department store and Royal Warrant holder. From May to July 2019, the brand held a prominent showcase in Fortnum's jewellery hall, culminating in a well-attended private event. The collaboration highlighted five pillars of the brand:

• What's Your Colour?
• Bespoke Pearl Jewellery
• Bridal Pearls
• Leather & Pearl Jewellery
• Fine Pearl Jewellery

Due to high demand, the event became one of Fortnum & Mason's most oversubscribed guest list evenings that year. The collaboration between both brands continues to this day.

Fashion collaborations

Coleman Douglas Pearls has worked with celebrated designers and events, including:

• Graeme Black – Multiple pearl necklaces and bracelets were featured in his fashion shows, with pieces like the white freshwater pearl lariat and cuff bracelet appearing on several models.
• Chelsea Festival – Alongside Amanda Wakeley and Vivienne Westwood, Coleman Douglas designs graced the catwalk, including a multi-strand torso piece, choker with collar and freshwater pearl cuff.
• Dior – In June 1995, Coleman Douglas' Titania Choker was featured in Lucia Van der Post's Financial Times article, How to Spend It. This inspired John Galliano's first Haute Couture Spring Summer 1997 collection for Dior as well as the 'Boudoir Revolution' collection for Dior in 1998. Subsequently, the choker was also featured in British Vogue, Paris Vogue, Madame Paris, Marie Claire, The Telegraph, Country Life and InStyle USA and Italian Vogue.

Awards and recognition

UK Jewellery Awards

1998 – UK Jewellery Award for Marketing Category. The award was influenced by the media success of the Titania Pearl Choker, a multi-strand cultured pearl necklace that appeared on the front cover of Marie Claire, worn by Gisele Bündchen in Chloé. The judges praised the brand's innovative fusion of couture fashion with pearl jewellery.

Tahitian Pearl Design Awards

Coleman Douglas Pearls has a long-standing track record at the Tahitian Pearl Trophy, one of the industry's most respected design competitions:

• 2003 – Winner for the "Warrior" design, a versatile creation that could be transformed into two necklaces and two bracelets using a full strand of Tahitian pearls paired with hand-woven barbed-wire shaped leather.
• 2005 – Continued success at the UK Tahitian Pearl Awards, presented by actress Anna Chancellor. This recognition further elevated Chrissie Douglas's profile, leading to her being selected as a designer for Tiffany & Co.'s pearl brand, Iridesse.
• 2012 – Winner of two out of four categories in the Tahitian Pearl Trophy – USA edition. Both winning pieces were praised as "wearable objets d'art," incorporating platinum chains and flawless Tahitian pearls.
• 2012 – Coleman Douglas Pearls won the UK Section Accessory Category with their "Lasso" design – part of a multi-year winning streak that established the brand's creative leadership in pearl design.
• 2012 ~ Chrissie Douglas was also awarded First Prize in the UK Tahitian Pearl Design Awards in the Pendant Category.

Independent Retailer of the Year

• 2018 – Independent Retailer of the Year' at the Kensington and Chelsea Business Awards, hosted by the Kensington & Chelsea Chamber of Commerce. The award was presented by the Cadogan Estate, who praised the brand as "a most impressive enterprise... driven towards becoming masters of the craft."

Museum recognition

• 2013 – The Natural History Museum of New York selected Coleman Douglas Pearl designs to feature in its world-touring Pearls exhibition.
• Ongoing – The Natural History Museum in London currently includes Coleman Douglas Pearls jewellery in its permanent collection in the Earth Treasury.

Royal recognition

• 1998 – Princess Anne, in her capacity as Patron of UK Fashion Exports, visited the Coleman Douglas Pearls showroom in recognition of Chrissie Douglas's innovative approach to promoting pearls.

Tiffany & Co. recognition

• 2004 – Selected as one of five international designers for Tiffany & Co.'s Iridesse pearl venture, recognised for her distinguished design signature.

Media and celebrity endorsements

Press and publications

Coleman Douglas Pearls has been photographed and profiled in some of the world's most prestigious fashion and lifestyle magazines – showcasing the brand in a variety of contexts such as bridal shoots, red carpet features and editorial spreads on emerging jewellery trends. Publications that have featured the brand include:

• Vogue (UK, Italy, Russia)
• Tatler
• Financial Times – How To Spend It
• The Telegraph
• The Sunday Times – Style Magazine
• Vanity Fair
• Country Life
• The Spectator
• Hello!
• Marie Claire
• Elle
• Red
• The Lady
• Harper's & Queen
• Harper's Bazaar Junior
• Brides
• Bride
• You & Your Wedding
• InStyle
• Jewellery Focus
• Retail Jeweller
• QEST
• Cosmopolitan Bride
• Grazia
• Centurion Magazine
• Epicurean Life
• Brand Jewellery Japan
• Figaro Japan
• GINZA
• Grand Magazin Japan
• The Best Scottish Weddings
• On the Rocks
• Edge
• The Mayfair

Film and television appearances

Coleman Douglas Pearl designs have appeared in numerous films and television series, worn by leading actors in high-profile productions:

• Match Point – Directed by Woody Allen
• The Debt – Starring Helen Mirren
• Chalet Girl – Featuring Brooke Shields
• Miranda – BBC romantic comedy starring Patricia Hodge
• Lewis – ITV detective drama

Notable clients

Over the years, Coleman Douglas Pearls has attracted a diverse and prestigious clientele, including royalty, media personalities, designers and actors. Among those known to wear or own Coleman Douglas Pearl jewellery are:

• HRH Princess Anne
• Kristen Scott Thomas
• Helen Mirren
• Jerry Hall
• Grace Jones
• Julie Walters
• Halle Berry
• Bette Midler
• Jodie Comer
• Timothée Chalamet
• Golda Rosheuvel
• Anna Chancellor
• Romola Garai
• Sophie Hunter
• Amelia Fox
• Hannah Sandling
• Twiggy
• Sam Fox
• Nicola Benedetti
• Santa Montefiore
• John Shepherd
• Flora Montgomery

Ethics and sustainability

Coleman Douglas Pearls takes deliberate steps to ensure that every piece reflects sustainable values and a respect for nature – particularly fitting, given the organic origins of pearls themselves.

Responsibly sourced pearls and materials

The company uses only responsibly sourced pearls and conflict-free diamonds in its designs. Whether working with classic cultured pearls, Tahitian varieties, or more rare and exotic types, Coleman Douglas Pearls ensures traceability and ethical farming practices throughout its supply chain.

This commitment is evident in Chrissie Douglas's long-standing relationships with pearl farmers and her careful selection of suppliers. Many of these partnerships have developed over decades, with a shared ethos around respect for nature, craftsmanship and sustainability.

The Butterfly Oyster Pearl Project

In 2019, Chrissie and her husband Andrew travelled to the Gulf of California to explore the rare and sustainable Butterfly Oyster Pearl – also known as the Rainbow-Lipped Pearl or Pteria sterna. These pearls are cultivated by a small group of marine biologists who blend centuries-old techniques with modern environmental research. The team's careful process, from seeding to harvesting, prioritises animal welfare, nacre quality and local employment.

Chrissie personally took part in the pearl harvest, describing it as "a once-in-a-lifetime experience" that united her personal heritage with the brand's vision. These Butterfly Oyster Pearls were introduced to the UK for the first time by Coleman Douglas Pearls, representing a major milestone in sustainable luxury jewellery.

"The operation is run by local workers from a former Yaqui neighbourhood, who inherit in their blood the strength of the Yaqui tribe... nature creates its own miracle: the pearls." ~ Chrissie Douglas

Handcrafted, small batch production

All Coleman Douglas Pearl jewellery is handcrafted in the brand's London studio, allowing for small-batch production, reduced waste and meticulous quality control. Unlike mass-market brands, each piece is made to last – often passed down as heirlooms or updated and restrung for a second life.

Sustainable design philosophy

Chrissie's design ethos centres on timelessness and versatility – creating jewellery that is worn and loved for years, not just for fashion seasons. Clients are encouraged to restring or repurpose their designs and the brand regularly works with customers to redesign old jewellery into modern creations.

This sustainable design approach reflects Chrissie's belief that jewellery should be worn, not stored – and that pearls are for everyday beauty, not just special occasions.