Draft:Bharwad&Angarkha

The Bharwad Community and Their Sartorial Traditions: A Cultural Synthesis The Bharwad are a Hindu pastoral community predominantly residing in Gujarat, India, historically engaged in livestock herding, especially of goats and sheep. They belong to the broader class of Maldhari nomadic groups, and their traditional identity is deeply tied to both mythological origins and distinctive clothing practices, including garments like the Angarkha.

Origins and Mythologies Multiple oral traditions surround the Bharwad’s origin, ranging from divine crafting by Parvati and Shiva, to tales involving Krishna, who is central to their cosmology. One narrative explains how Krishna created duplicates of the Bharwads to replace those captured by Kansa, resulting in the division into Motabhai (elder) and Nanabhai (younger) subgroups. These mythic distinctions are reflected in their rituals and even the fabric of their daily dress.

Other tales describe them as descendants of Nanda, Krishna's foster father, or from Gokul, signifying a link with Krishna’s pastoral world. Such stories underscore their cultural legitimacy as divine cowherds, reinforcing their caste identity in religious terms. Notably, some narratives hint at ancient polyandrous practices, which still resonate in marriage customs like marrying a brother’s widow.

Caste and Social Hierarchy Although traditionally considered to be of mixed varna—born of a Vaishya father and Shudra mother—the Bharwads have historically occupied a lower rung in the pastoral caste structure. Nevertheless, their urban migration, dominance in the milk economy, and gradual integration into modern Gujarat’s agro-economy have helped them elevate their socio-economic status.

They are classified under the Other Backward Class (OBC) in Gujarat, with some remote forest-based subgroups listed as Scheduled Tribes.

Sartorial Identity: Bharwad Dress and the Angarkha Clothing for the Bharwads has never been merely functional—it’s a marker of caste, purity, and continuity. Emma Tarlo in her landmark work Clothing Matters (1996), emphasizes that being born a Bharwad isn't sufficient; one must "dress Bharwad" to truly belong.

Women’s Clothing Historically, Bharwad women wore woolen garments sourced from Dalit weavers, including the jimi (waistcloth), embroidered open-backed bodices, and veils with symbolic colors—red dots for Motabhais, yellow for Nanabhais. Today, synthetic fabrics like polyester have replaced traditional wool due to affordability, though the designs remain intact. Some women still hold steadfast beliefs, such as, "If you wear a sari, you are no longer a Bharwad. Better to die than change your clothes."

Men’s Attire: The Angarkha and Beyond Men traditionally wear the Angarkha, a long, side-tied robe with tight sleeves—a garment with deep Indo-Persian roots. The word “Angarkha” comes from the Sanskrit aṅgarakṣaka meaning "body protector." It evolved from Persian garments like the balaba or chapkan during the Mughal era and became, by the 19th century, a symbol of education and refinement.

The Bharwad version of the Angarkha often includes a massive turban (pagri)—pink or red for younger men, white for elders, signifying seniority. The Angarkha is worn over a kediyu (short smock) and chorni (pleated pants), and is considered so essential that abandoning it is equivalent to renouncing caste.

Even today, despite Western influences, traditional garments are still used in ceremonies, festivals, and spiritual rites—serving as textile testaments to ancestral bonds and mythic histories.

Cultural Persistence in a Modern World In the age of Instagram and globalized fashion, Bharwad clothing may appear static, but it is far from neutral. As Tarlo notes, “You perform identity through clothing”—and this performance continues among Bharwads, especially in rural Saurashtra and Gir Forest areas. While literacy and education levels remain low, their textile traditions act as oral history, stitched into every turban fold and embroidered sleeve.

References & Bibliography

103.240.204.128 (talk) 17:33, 14 June 2025 (UTC)Yagna Oza