Adaptive fashion

Adaptive fashion refers to clothing, footwear, and accessories specifically designed for people who have difficulties dressing themselves due to physical disabilities, limited mobility, or other physical impairments. This includes individuals with permanent or temporary conditions such as limb differences, vision or hearing impairments, developmental disabilities, diseases like muscular dystrophy or multiple sclerosis, broken limbs, or impairments associated with ageing. Adaptive clothing aims to address the lack of accommodation for user's capabilities or body shape and conventional garment design, which can make standard clothing inaccessible.

The goal of adaptive fashion is to enable people with disabilities to participate easily in daily activities, and feel a sense of social belonging. Well-designed adaptive clothing can reduce dependence on caregivers, prevent physical injuries like pressure ulcers, and help individuals feel more comfortable in social settings.

Business case for adaptive design

People with disabilities make up roughly 13% of the U.S. population and contribute $21 billion in disposable income to the economy. Despite this substantial purchasing power, this market has been historically overlooked and ignored by the apparel industry.

Features of adaptive clothing

Adaptive clothing is designed to address the specific challenges disabled people face when interacting with traditional garments. These challenges can include difficulty manipulating small fasteners like buttons or zippers, limited range of motion for dressing, discomfort from seams or fabrics when seated or using medical devices, and issues with fit due to braces, prosthetics, or other physical variations.

Key features of adaptive clothing

• Replacing traditional closures like buttons or zippers with magnetic buttons, Velcro, or larger, easy-to-grip zippers.
• Openings positioned in the back or sides for easier dressing, particularly for individuals with limited upper body mobility or wheelchair users.
• Flat seams or specialized fabric placement to prevent skin irritation or pressure sores, especially for wheelchair users or bedridden patients.
• Longer length in the back of shirts or pants to accommodate a seated position in a wheelchair.
• Stretchy waistbands and dimensions that accommodate braces, orthotics, incontinence supplies, or fluctuating body shapes.
• Hidden openings or pockets to facilitate access for medical devices such as ports, ostomy bags, or feeding tubes.
• Footwear with wide openings or zippers along the upper to make them easier to put on.

Industry efforts and brands

The past few years have seen increased visibility for adaptive fashion and disability representation in the mainstream fashion industry.

• British Vogue's May 2023 issue focused on adaptive fashion and featured cover stars with visible disabilities.
• Actress Selma Blair, who has multiple sclerosis, debuted an adaptive collection with Isaac Mizrahi in September 2023.
• Tommy Hilfiger launched Tommy Hilfiger Adaptive in 2016, offering items with features like magnetic closures and non-irritating fabrics. The brand was founded in partnership with Mindy Scheier, founder of non-profit Runway of Dreams (RoD).
• Mindy Scheier became an adaptive apparel advocate because she struggled to find mainstream fashion-forward apparel for her son, who had a rare form of muscular dystrophy.
• Victoria's Secret debuted its own adaptive collection in 2023 and began offering products from the adaptive brand Liberare, which designs bras with magnetic front closures tested with women with disabilities.
• Other brands known for their adaptive lines include Target (kids' clothing with soft fabrics, flat seams, hidden openings), Zappos (adaptive shoes), Joe & Bella (apparel for older adults with adaptive features), Slick Chicks (adaptive underwear with side clasps), Billy Footwear (shoes with zip uppers), Unhidden Clothing (designs for medical devices), Silvert's (adaptive clothing for seniors, elderly, and PWD), and Reboundwear (multi-zipper designs for post-surgery).
• Indian adaptive fashion brands include Suvastra Designs (shirts with magnetic buttons, pants with Velcro, one-piece sari for older women), Aaraam Se, Move Ability, and Zyenka.
• Models with disabilities like Aaron Rose Philip and Mama Cax have gained visibility on runways. Ellie Goldstein, a model with Down Syndrome, was featured in a Gucci campaign.
• Organizations like Open Style Lab connect designers, engineers, and occupational therapists with people with disabilities to create accessible wearables. Gamut Management and the non-profit Runway of Dreams collaborate with brands on adaptive lines and hold fashion shows featuring models with disabilities.

Industry impact on adolescents with disabilities

Adolescents with disabilities report that the fit of their clothes can significantly affect their body image. Properly-fitted clothes and inconspicuous adaptations can increase self-confidence in social situations. Psychological theories highlight the importance of self-esteem and a "sense of belonging" during adolescence, which can correlate to self-expression through clothing.

Reports indicate that a lack of appropriate or well-fitting clothing can cause adolescents with disabilities to feel insecure, less confident, embarrassed, or even humiliated in social situations.

Industry issues

Barriers of adaptive design:

• Cost: Overcoming physical barriers in design can be expensive, requiring initial investment to integrate inclusive features rather than add them later. This upfront cost can be a deterrent for businesses, although long-term cost savings can be achieved by avoiding subsequent modifications. High prices for adaptive clothing limit consumer access.
• Social and Attitudinal Barriers: Historically, designing for underrepresented groups has been unpopular due to a focus on designing for a homogeneous public and the "most served users".
• Lack of Diversity in Design Teams: Design teams often lack diversity, including individuals with disabilities, hindering the ability to understand and design for diverse user needs.
• Limited Retail Availability: While online options are increasing, adaptive clothing is still rarely available in physical retail stores.
• Lack of Standardization: The fashion industry lacks standardized sizing, which complicates finding well-fitting clothes for people with adaptive needs.