Clothing in Sudan

Woman, with scarifications, wearing a Thawb

Manasir man wearing a turban

Sudan is home to nearly 600 ethnic groups and clothing reflects the country's ethnic, regional, and historical diversity, shaped by centuries of cultural exchange along Nile Valley and across Sahel and Red Sea regions. Most Sudanese wear a combination of traditional and modern attire, with choices often influenced by climate, social setting, and religious norms.

Among Sudanese men, a common traditional garment is the Jalabiya, a loose-fitting, long-sleeved, ankle-length robe, typically collarless. The Jalabiya may be worn in white during hot seasons or in heavier, darker fabrics during cooler months, and is often paired with a imma (turban) and a shawl or scarf. Variations exist across regions, from urban tailoring to rural and pastoral adaptations, especially among Beja, Ja’alin, and other ethnic groups.

For Sudanese women, the most iconic garment is the toub, a long rectangular cloth, often white or brightly colored that is draped around the body and head over inner garments. The thobe serves both aesthetic and social functions and is especially prevalent in northern and central Sudan, with intricate embroidery or decorative fabric signifying occasions such as weddings, mourning, or formal gatherings.

Traditional clothing

Women

Manasir family

Due to a 1991 penal code (Public Order Law), women were not allowed to wear trousers in public, because it was interpreted as an "obscene outfit". The punishment for wearing trousers could be up to 40 lashes, but after being found guilty in 2009, one woman was fined the equivalent of 200 U.S. dollars instead. In some parts of Sudan, there may be restrictions on attire for women, such as wearing pants or trousers, and non-compliance with these norms can lead to legal consequences.

Northern and Central Sudan

In northern and central Sudan, toub is most common, a long, rectangular piece of fabric usually between 4 and 7 meters, wrapped around the body and head. The toub is typically worn over a dress (known locally as jalabiya), and may be made of cotton, silk, or synthetic blends. Historically worn in solid white or muted earth tones, modern tobes now feature intricate embroidery, vibrant colors, and imported fabrics. The garment plays a key role in weddings, mourning, political gatherings, and everyday life, often indicating a woman’s marital status or social role.

The tobe's origins date back to the late eighteenth century when prosperous merchants in Darfur clothed their wives and daughters in large swaths of fine imported linen, muslin, and silk as a sign of their wealth and prestige." In the context of urban culture in Sudan since the 1930s, new and often colourful styles of tobes became fashionable, as Sudanese women "expressed their growing opportunities and desires through fashion."

In terms of clothing, Sudanese women often wear the "Chadur," an extended piece of fabric that covers the entire body, including the head. The Chadur is typically worn as an outer coat, and it is accompanied by the "Tob" and the "Hijab." The Tob is a head covering, and the Hijab is a modest dress code followed by many Muslim women. The clothing choices and social roles of women in Sudan are influenced by cultural norms and religious traditions. One traditional garment worn by Sudanese women is the "Thawb," a long, colourful fabric wrap typically worn over a dress or shirt and a skirt. In the past, the Tawb was worn by all Sudanese women, but modern preferences have shifted towards more contemporary clothing styles.

Eastern Sudan

Among Beja women in the east, traditional attire includes long robes made from brightly dyed fabric, paired with gold jewelry and braided hairstyles. Eastern styles often feature bold colors and sashes tied around the waist or shoulder, with variations between Hadendowa, Beni Amer, Bishari, and Rashida communities. Fabrics are chosen for climate suitability and aesthetics, blending practicality with symbolism.

Western Sudan (Darfur and Kordofan)

In western Sudan, particularly in Darfur and Kordofan, women wear the toub along with other colorful, layered garments. Fabric choices are adapted to the arid climate and social setting, ranging from lightweight cotton for everyday wear to more ornate fabrics for special occasions. According to local reporting, Fur, Masalit, Hausa, Nuba, and Fulani communities wear bold colors, layered wraps, embroidery, and henna-stamped patterns to express identity and style. Clothing remains a powerful symbol of pride, resilience, and femininity in these communities.

Men

Warrior from the tribe of the Ja'alin wearing a traditional cloths and holding a kaskara

A Mahdist soldier wearing a jibba (1899)

The national traditional attire for men is the Jalabiya, a long white garmet and can vary based on the region and ethnic background. The Jalabiya has remained a popular fashion choice for Sudanese men across different tribes.

Different regions within Sudan showcase unique fashion influences. In the Nubian region, clothing reflects the remnants of the great Kush civilization with its bright colors and playful designs. Eastern Sudanese men wear a longer Jalabiya accompanied by loose pants and vests, while western Sudan exhibits a mix of tribal and foreign influences, resulting in modern designs and African fabric patterns.

Wearing Jibba, Taqiyah (cap), and Markoob is common.

The markoub is one of the most important features that make up the Sudanese identity, in addition to the white turban, jalabiya, waistcoat, top and pants, and with their integration they represent the Sudanese national dress. In the past, there was a boat for women, but it has now disappeared. The boat is made by hand in Sudan and varies in its shapes and sizes, including the boat of El Fasher and made in the city of El Fasher in western Sudan, the boat of Jenny and the boat of Al Jazeera Aba . The price, the skin of cows, sheep, and even crocodiles, and the Sudanese love to wear it during the two Eid prayers, and it is one of the symbols of Sudanese culture and the admiration of many Sudanese tourists.

Kids

Kids' clothing in Sudan is heavily influenced by a combination of cultural, religious, and regional factors. Traditional attire for Sudanese children is deeply rooted in the country's Islamic heritage, with a strong emphasis on modesty, particularly in accordance with Islamic principles.

Islamic values play a significant role in shaping children's clothing choices. Both boys and girls are encouraged to wear garments that cover their arms and legs, reflecting the importance of modesty in Islamic culture. For girls, this often entails wearing headscarves, especially as they reach adolescence. Traditional Sudanese clothing, such as the "Jalabiya," is also a common choice for children. The Jalabiya is a loose-fitting, long-sleeved, ankle-length garment, known for its comfort and suitability in Sudan's warm climate.

Bright and vibrant colours are prevalent in Sudanese children's attire, and natural fabrics like cotton are favoured for their breathability and comfort, which is essential given Sudan's hot weather conditions. Accessories such as bracelets, necklaces, and rings are worn by Sudanese children, although these adornments are typically modest and simple in design. During special occasions and celebrations like Eid, Sudanese children adorn themselves in their finest clothing, often featuring more elaborate and colourful outfits, aligning with the festive spirit of these events.

Footwear choices for children vary depending on whether they live in urban or rural areas. Urban children are more likely to wear modern shoes like sneakers, while those in rural areas may opt for traditional sandals or even go barefoot, reflecting the influence of regional factors on attire choices.

Jewellery

Sudanese bride in traditional costume (qarmis)

Sudanese jewellery has its origins trace back to ancient times, with archaeological excavations unearthing exquisite pieces made from materials such as gold, silver, and semi-precious stones. These artefacts provide a glimpse into the craftsmanship of ancient Sudanese civilizations. One notable influence on Sudanese jewellery is the Nubian civilization, renowned for its intricate gold ornaments. Many of these treasures have been discovered in tombs, underlining their importance in Nubian burial traditions.

Sudanese jewellery holds profound cultural significance and is often used to mark significant life events like weddings and ceremonies. The design and materials used can vary widely based on the ethnic group and regional customs within Sudan. Craftsmen employ a variety of materials, including gold, silver, beads, as well as natural elements like shells and bones. Traditional techniques like filigree, cloisonné, and beading have been passed down through generations.

In modern Sudan, jewellery making remains a thriving art form. Contemporary Sudanese artists and designers blend traditional techniques with new styles and ideas, keeping Sudanese jewellery vibrant and relevant. Economic factors have also played a role in jewellery production, with artisans often relying on this craft for both their livelihood and the preservation of cultural heritage during challenging times.

Contemporary clothing

Sudanese woman wearing contemporary clothes, and Sudanese man wearing a jalabiya

In recent times, Sudan has experienced various influences on its fashion sense, including Islamic colonization and the introduction of modest fashion, hijabs, abayas, and niqāb. These influences have shaped the modern Sudanese fashion landscape, merging traditional elements with contemporary styles.

Textile industry

Sudan's fashion industry is evolving, and there is a growing interest in supporting local designers. Sudanese designers are emerging with brands like Amna's Wardrobe, offering elegant and modest clothing for special occasions.

It is important to note that Sudan's fashion history is intertwined with its textile industry. The country has a long-standing relationship with textiles, and the establishment of modern textile factories using locally produced cotton dates back to 1945.

Significance of clothing

Traditional clothing remains a powerful expression of cultural identity across Sudan’s many regions and ethnic groups. For many Sudanese, wearing garments such as the toub, jalabiya, or region-specific wraps is not only a matter of personal style, but a visible link to ancestral heritage, social values, and community belonging. Clothing often marks key life stages such as marriage, mourning, or initiation and reflects regional, religious, and generational identities. In both rural and urban areas, traditional dress continues to coexist with contemporary fashion, symbolizing pride, resilience, and cultural continuity in the face of social and political change.